Synthetic oil is required for most VW's built since 2000, with the exception of the 2.0 liter NON turbo 4 cylinder motor. Even the 2.5 liter 5 cylinder motor is recommended for synthetic oil as well.
I've personally used synthetic oils for over 15 years, using such brands as EON, (now called NEO), Amsoil, Redline, Castrol, Mobil 1, Shell synthetic as well, so I have some experience with these products. [ I just sold a car that has used synthetic oil in it from almost new (it has 222,000+ miles on it) and still goes 5,000 miles before needing any oil added to it.] The fact is that synethetic oils no matter what the base stock is all the following characteristics:
1) Lower pour point temperatures, in other words, the temp that the oil can still flow without becoming a jell. In most synethetic oils, the pour point can get as low as -50 degrees F, verses a natural base oil that might get to -20 degrees F.
2) Higher temperature protection: some synthetic oils can still pour out at 550 degrees, vs a standard natural oil which usually will start jelling out at 300 degrees F.
3) Ability to flow into tighter spaces and leaving a ultra thin coat of lubricant even after the oil has drained off the metal.
4) Ability to hold contaminates in suspension for longer periods of time and larger amounts than regular oil before the oil becomes ';used up.';
5) Longer drain intervals, some as long as 15,000 miles..
Most of the oils are made from two different base stocks: ester based or synthesized hydrocarbons. NEO, Redline and I believe Amzoil are ester based stock oils, while the most ';common'; Mobil 1, is a synthesized hydrocarbon product. There is also a third type of base stock for synthetic oil called Polyalphaoletin (PAO), which is approved mainly for an additive package to oils, but can be used alone. I don't know of any synthetic oil on the US market that uses a 100% base of PAO.
Synthetic oils are not new, the Germans used this at least as early as the early 1940's and during the 1950's Union Carbide sold a synthetic oil on the US market under the Prestone label, which was better known for their long life coolant, but it was too expensive and withdrawn from the market. Today, most transmission fluids are 100% synthetic fluids, which explains why they are so expensive (up to $25.00 per quart!)
Your VW does require a oil that will meet the VW spec 505.001, or 501.000, which only Mobil 1 European formula or a specially labeled Castrol oil (not the regular synthetic oil).
Hope this helps, a car nut.I recently purchased a 2002 VW Jetta and had a question on synthetic oil?
this oil is better for lubing but it is also thinner than regular oil so if you started out using regular oil i would suggest that you continue using it, because, you could have tiny cracks in your engine that the regular oil doesn't get through but since synthetic oil is thinner it will find its way past those holes and then you will get oil leaks, witch will lower the value of the car. but if your car came with synthetic oil you cant go back to regular oil you are stuck. HOPE I HELPED
synthetic oils are man made. they usually can last longer and have more protection chemicals and engine detergents in them. It wouldnt hurt if anything it will help. I have always put full synthetic oil in my cars and they run perfect even with 250,000 miles on them
The lubricating qualities of synthetic oil work better than semi-synthetic or mineral oils at high temperatures. You can mix them but semi and mineral will reduce the effectiveness of fully synthetic but not to the point where you will blow your engine up.
that's bs who ever told you that.
if you read the repair manual from Bentley, it says 5w-40.
5000 depending on driving condition.
if you live in the city, i will recommend doing it sooner or just check your oil once in awhile.
Don't you know...';the new stuff is always better';. It is made from left over Kentucky Fried chicken cooking oil that could not be digested by bacteria. So it costs more.
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